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Post by keith on Jun 8, 2021 16:33:53 GMT 10
Thanks guys
I have started my first service.
I started with the final drive as there was some oil on the back wheel after yesterday’s ride. Maybe from the breather. Not sure yet , so I’ve done the final drive oil change , there was some very fine swarf on the drain plug magnet but there was still oil in the final drive .I’ll have to keep an eye on it.
The final drive is easiest to get to anyway.
Just waiting for oil filter to arrive to do engine.
Will do gearbox and grease final drive coupling next.
And then onto valve clearances.
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Post by haitch on Jun 11, 2021 9:35:13 GMT 10
Hi Keith. Does your final drive have a breather extension. If no, many fit one to give the fine mist from the drive somewhere to go other that all over the FD. Theory is is goes up the black tube toward the one way breather. Condenses in the tube, running back down into the FD.Just a thought. Kits available in the USA. Not sure about here.Give Ural a call in Uralla.
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Post by Deano on Jun 11, 2021 9:52:47 GMT 10
Dealer can supply, at least up here, $35. Cheaper if you track down a fitting and bit of hose. Keeps the oil off the rim, tyre etc. and also keeps water out crossing water.
Cheers
Deano
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Post by keith on Jun 11, 2021 12:50:40 GMT 10
Yeah I have a long breather hose fitted. So I’ll keep an eye on it and see what happens. I’ll carry some oil with me .
Now I’m adjusting the valves , is there a tolerance , or does it have to be exactly 0.1mm?
I have just cracked open the right hand side, the in is 0.2 and the out is 0.15.
I’m adjusting back to 0.1.
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Post by Uralee on Jun 11, 2021 17:28:02 GMT 10
Set it as close to 0.1mm but not tighter.
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Post by keith on Jun 11, 2021 17:33:16 GMT 10
Ok all done , went for quick test ride , no leaks.
Just a bit of grease fling from the drive shaft coupling we’re I probably got carried away within my new grease gun 😊
Will check levels again in the morning when she cools down.
Had to adjust all valves back to 0.1 , all were between 0.2 and .0.15
So I’ve adjusted them so I can get the 0.1 feeler in the gap and the 0.15 does not fit.
Strange thing about the Allen key bolts holding the valve covers on , it looks like all of them (8) were tightened by someone using the wrong size Allen key.
Seems odd because it’s a 6mm Allen key and there’s one in the tool kit.
Must have been done at the factory ?
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Post by keith on Jun 11, 2021 17:38:08 GMT 10
Ok all done , went for quick test ride , no leaks. Just a bit of grease fling from the drive shaft coupling we’re I probably got carried away within my new grease gun 😊 Will check levels again in the morning when she cools down. Had to adjust all valves back to 0.1 , all were between 0.2 and .0.15 So I’ve adjusted them so I can get the 0.1 feeler in the gap and the 0.15 does not fit. Strange thing about the Allen key bolts holding the valve covers on , it looks like all of them (8) were tightened by someone using the wrong size Allen key. Seems odd because it’s a 6mm Allen key and there’s one in the tool kit. Must have been done at the factory ?   |
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Post by Tvan on Jun 11, 2021 19:11:49 GMT 10
Thats really annoying when you find poor workmanship or lack of pride.
Also just finished my service, also changed out my tyres, for K37’s, been many years since I have had tubes. Got a few lessons out of that.
Jake
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Jun 12, 2021 7:16:58 GMT 10
...Thats really annoying when you find poor workmanship or lack of pride. As an owner you are going to have to get used to that. I doubt it was the wrong hex key, my guess is that they are using pneumatic tools without a torque stop. All my clutch plate bolts were nearly rounded and that wasn't the owners fault. Pays to check all the cap head screws while you are in the dry warmth of your garage  |
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Post by brucek on Jun 12, 2021 9:41:35 GMT 10
The stock ones appear to be the low head type with a shallow hex. Hard to tell from the pics.
Might not look as sexy but consider replacing the stock rocker cover screws with conventional (stainless) socket head cap screws. That way you get screws with a full depth hex. Much more practical.
BTW I think using a screw at each corner instead of the previous single central nut is a retrograde step. It's a recipe for warped covers because they WILL be overtightened by someone at some stage.
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