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Post by haitch on Feb 5, 2022 17:09:24 GMT 10
Hi All. I'm leading with my chin here. Does anyone use a battery caddy. If so, what is appropriate for Ural battery type. I'm betting the answer will be "ride it"
Thanks in advance. A search didn't bring anything up.
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Post by Tvan on Feb 5, 2022 17:19:25 GMT 10
I have an Optimate tender that I use every now and then if thats what you mean by caddy Use this for my other bike as well as it can also do canbus systems
Jake
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Post by haitch on Feb 5, 2022 18:26:41 GMT 10
I have an Optimate tender that I use every now and then if thats what you mean by caddy Use this for my other bike as well as it can also do canbus systems Jake Thanks Jake. But what is canbus. I know it's to do with ODB2?? But that's it. Learning.
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Post by Tvan on Feb 5, 2022 19:56:52 GMT 10
Canbus is the wiring system in BMW bikes, I think in simple terms it is like a ring main where wiring is all off a single loom which talks to the computer. Apparently this reduces the amont of wiring in a bike certainly in size of wiring. Not a sparky so not sure of correct terminology.
Jake
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Post by Uralee on Feb 5, 2022 20:40:57 GMT 10
This is an interesting topic. General advise for a non daily driver is to use a battery tender…….meaning a battery charger that trickles charge in and the better ones operate on a cycle of on and off. I have often heard “ I have had the tender on all winter but when I tried to start my bike/car the battery was dead”. Years ago before “battery tenders” and trickle chargers were prone to cooking batteries, I decided to just charge my batteries once a month. I have had a fantastic run with battery life over the past 50 years. My car battery is now 9 years old and my truck 8. Honda bike battery is 5 years. Another old bike only gets ridden 8 or 10 times per year and the battery is still good at 4 years. All of them get charged fully every 4-6 weeks…….unless I forget. 🤣🤣🤣
So now I have put the mokka on myself, I will probably be buying new batteries soon…😳👎This could get expensive……Haitch, stop thinking please.
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Post by Uralee on Feb 5, 2022 20:48:41 GMT 10
Haitch, canbus has nothing to do with OBD. 😇 It is a means of using a single wire to operate multiple items. A signal is sent through the wire to tell the item to operate. Eg. The one wire to both stop and tail light provides power to both and the canbus (computer) sends the signal to operate each one. This is a fairly simplistic explanation, but should suffice…….I hope. 😜
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bewildered
Tool for reverse shift lever removal
Posts: 276
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Post by bewildered on Feb 6, 2022 2:51:19 GMT 10
A quality charger like a C-Tek can be left connected indefinitely without detriment but Lee's method is fine, a lead acid battery will likely self discharge and be pretty much stuffed after 3 months, the AGM [Absorbed Glass Mat] batteries of which I have used hundreds were warranted to hold charge for 6 months. A 7 amp C-Tek will suit just about any 12V battery we are likely to encounter, charger cables are available at low cost to allow the charger to be quickly connected when desired and seal up water tight when not. In the old days heaps of batteries were ruined by the commonly available $15.00 K-Mart charger, I recall charging small lead acid batteries on race bikes with total loss ignition, involved a tiny little hydrometer with various coloured floating balls. PITA.
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Feb 6, 2022 5:27:19 GMT 10
Threw a new battery in over three years ago and haven't had any trouble since. It was the cheapest led acid I could find, think it cost $129. Ended up giving my charger to a mate as it wasn't being used. The way I see it is that as long as the battery isn't completely toast you should be able to kick it over (unless you removed the lever I guess...). If it is toast then a charger is no good anyway.
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Post by Uralee on Feb 6, 2022 8:51:10 GMT 10
A lead acid battery works and lasts best if kept above the 80% charge level. Once below that, they struggle to attain a full capacity charge again…especially if you only do short trips. The charging coils on a Solo bike has a very small output compared to the alternator we are blessed with so they need to run longer to replace the energy used when starting. Once again, maintenance is the key to long life and avoiding failures…….there are two thoughts on how to do this: The marketers of battery tenders have a good thing going. I will stick with periodic charging. Do whatever works for you, even if that is buying a new battery every few years. As an aside, You can purchase a battery for URAL and most other bikes for half of what Andy spent 👀
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Post by haitch on Feb 6, 2022 9:01:59 GMT 10
I found this in an OBD2 CAN bus discussion it basically implies that with the introduction of Euro 5 new OBD2/K-Line/CAN Bus protocol were introduced for all motorcycles into the EU. Post 2021. It explains in part my thinking of an association between OBD2 and CAN-bus. Image is a screen shot off my phone. Sorry about quality. Here is the link to the full article if you need a read. ridematerial.com/motorcycle-obd2-complete-guide/Perhaps Lee might like to relocate this to new thread for general information to all.
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