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Post by brucek on Jan 12, 2018 17:07:32 GMT 10
In the course of the final drive re-build on my 2015 Ranger I decided to do something about the stock final drive breather. All it did was breathe hot oil mist all over the outside of casing and attract dust and eventually look like sh_t. Also I figured that having the breather mounted high would have to better for water crossings - this may or may not be problem depending who/what you read but enough 4WDrivers have done the same to their machines to convince me it was a worthwhile mod. I made my own fitting out of a piece of scrap aluminium just because I could but a std. banjo type fitting with a couple of fibre or copper washers would do just as well. The thread in the cover is a std M8x1.25 (coarse pitch). The bit at the end is a Super-Cheap Autos generic fuel filter. 
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Post by Piper on Feb 9, 2018 16:24:54 GMT 10
Hi Bruce ,
Just before I attempt to remove my FD breather and do your mod for the same reason you have is the thread your talking about in the old cap FD insert M8X1.25 ?
Cheers
Rob
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Post by michaelandtweety on Feb 9, 2018 20:53:54 GMT 10
Hi Bruce , Just before I attempt to remove my FD breather and do your mod for the same reason you have is the thread your talking about in the old cap FD insert M8X1.25 ? Cheers Rob Up to and including 2012, the breather is integral with the filler. That thread is M14 x 1.5mm pitch. 2013 and beyond the breather is the little one, M8 x 1.25 pitch.   |
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Post by Piper on Feb 9, 2018 20:57:13 GMT 10
Thanks for the info, now I know the size of my 2014 EFI thread breather
cheers
Rob
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2018 9:08:35 GMT 10
Thanks for the info, now I know the size of my 2014 EFI thread breather cheers Rob Rob I modified the existing breather.  |
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Post by Uralee on Feb 10, 2018 16:42:38 GMT 10
Yes. Separate breather thread is 8 x 1.25
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Post by rickrs on Mar 3, 2019 14:49:59 GMT 10
Used the excellent info from this site to get overcome the diff oil venting issue on my outfit. Great ideas here.  |
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Post by Uralee on Mar 3, 2019 15:47:36 GMT 10
Used the excellent info from this site to get overcome the diff oil venting issue on my outfit. Great ideas here. Yep, that will work.. and it should stop breathing after 5-10k. It is all temperature related and when the gears eventually run in, the final drive runs at a lower temp. |
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Mar 10, 2019 11:25:03 GMT 10
Used the excellent info from this site to get overcome the diff oil venting issue on my outfit. As Lee said the drive takes time to settle down. While the breather mod is a great idea, but might not solve the problem. You need to find out where the oil is coming from. There are 2 main seals to check. The first is at the Final Drive Bearing Nut (18) - where the shaft enters the final drive. After a 100K+ trip let the bike sit for 10 mins and then run your finger around the bottom of the nut where it enters the case. If there is oil there then it could be the final drive bearing nut seal located in that nut. Causes of failure can be as simple as the shaft being out of phase or as complex as the yoke being out of round. They are cheap, throw a new one in and see how long it lasts. Oh and the bearing nut is LHT. The second is the NAK seal on the output side of the drive (3) - (2017 onward have 2 seals here which negate the 222 Oring fix) - you can check this seal by looking under the drive and seeing if oil has run down the back face of the casing. Don't confuse a failure here with the drain hole at the bottom of the casing. Although if there seal is pushed too far into the casing it will block the overflow The drain hole at the bottom of the FD casing comes from inside the NAK seal and vents any accumulated oil from bearing end of the the crown race. Make sure that is open and free of debris. Both seals are easy to replace and available from CBC or Statewide Bearings. Last but not least check the drain plug washer. Excess leaking there will blow back onto the tire as well. A failure in any or all of the above will splatter your tires with oil - Oh and so will grease from the Uni - so don't forget to rule that out as well.  |
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Mar 10, 2019 11:50:34 GMT 10
Oh and forgot, if the oil seems to be coming from behind the swing arm then you might have a cracked drive face plate.
Bruce's Mod is brilliant, but he did it to stop misting at the breather which resulted in dust and crap on the FD case - if you have oil anywhere else, like all over your wheels, then you need to figure out where it is coming from.
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