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Post by Uralee on Oct 26, 2018 8:46:48 GMT 10
HF308’s Front 25k Rear 10k......all of tread. Side 50k
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Oct 27, 2018 19:44:29 GMT 10
I also swapped the front and sidecar wheels about a year ago because the sidecar tyre lasts forever compared to the front tyre. However, this involves swapping over the disc bosses and rotors which can be a bit tedious. Some might think this is not entirely necessary but I think it's a good thing. I reckon it maximises tyre life by sharing the load/wear between tyres. Did that today - couple of reasons, firstly I wanted to see if all the bolts would come out of the hubs and secondly I wanted a bit more tread on the front for the upcoming trip (now I have a new rear). With the front and sidecar wheels off it took about 10 minutes to swap the bosses and rotors over.
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Post by brucek on Oct 28, 2018 7:39:58 GMT 10
Did that today - couple of reasons, firstly I wanted to see if all the bolts would come out of the hubs and secondly I wanted a bit more tread on the front for the upcoming trip (now I have a new rear). With the front and sidecar wheels off it took about 10 minutes to swap the bosses and rotors over. Completely agree. That's part of the reason I did mine. The other thing is it's a good opportunity to change over the stock button head and/or low head screws for proper cap screws with a full size, full depth hex socket if you want to. The other thing I found was that some of the screws weren't quite long enough for my liking. Rough rule of thumb says two diameters of thread length is required for screws going into aluminium, i.e. 16 mm of thread protruding for an 8 mm screw (reduces the risk of stripping the threads out of the hole).
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Oct 30, 2018 4:57:10 GMT 10
Also just realised that the Spare (speed Rated) hub is the same as the front and chair. Which is pretty funny because I posted the links on how to change them out - Doh! - I just never thought of doing it semi-permanently. The speed rating is due to the hub being used as a pusher and the extra torque involved (my guess)
So if you were really keen you could rotate all three to exercise the hubs, spot stubborn screws and swap out the yak cheese ones and rotate the tires as well. I know it isn't necessary - but the option is there.
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Post by Uralee on Oct 30, 2018 8:30:48 GMT 10
I think the speed rating is more about the lazy owners who would fit the wheel without the brake disc...... The wheel is more than capable of the drive torque and side load as a pusher. Many outfits have been built with standard rear wheels of much less strength than the Ural wheel.
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Post by ploz58 on Sept 3, 2021 18:59:07 GMT 10
Balancing wheels, i was told by a local motorcycle tyre repairer, "you cant balance off road wheels, so dont bother". What is the learned consensus on this, given our terminal velocity on a Ural is about 1/3 of some modern machinery. The method described here with the jack stands sounds like better than having to purchase a balance stand.
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Post by Uralee on Sept 3, 2021 19:19:28 GMT 10
I have a ‘balance stand’ and it does the same static balance job but has just slightly less friction than using the bikes axle. A static balance (as it is called) is better than no balance but not as good as a dynamic balance.
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Post by Tvan on Sept 4, 2021 8:36:15 GMT 10
I also run a balance stand, just take my time doing this. I run a balance shaft that came with different attachments as I use this on my beemers.
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