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Post by Deano on May 3, 2020 12:09:34 GMT 10
G'day ladies,
Was buggering about with my back brake (as you do) which is either binding or non existant. Thought I'd check the pads to see how they were bedding and give it a bleed.
Firstly the safety clips for the brake pad pins can fly off and if you're bush and having brake problems good luck finding them. I was on a concrete floor, aware and careful. So I'd suggest carrying a couple of spare 'e' clips or thickish wire just in case.
Secondly the pad pins are a 3/8" hex key so adding one to your tool kit's an idea. Unless of course mine is a one off parts bin leftover. It did need a bleed and what a pain!
Cheers
Deano
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Post by Uralee on May 3, 2020 12:49:27 GMT 10
Easy peasy bleed mate. Remove caliper and hold with bleed nipple at absolute top. Bleeds fine then.. Maybe you will like my rear brake mod...  |
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Post by Deano on May 3, 2020 13:06:01 GMT 10
Yeah, that looks like a much better position.
Cheers
Deano
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on May 3, 2020 20:13:04 GMT 10
The rear is off a Can-Am Spyder 2008 hence the 3/8" hex. There was one in my tool roll or don't they supply the tools anymore? The rear brake will need adjusting every 500 - 1000 kilometers to keep the park brake working. Or just nip the park brake up a turn at each fuel stop - or do Lee's mod.
There is a technical bulletin #S012014 that describes the correct way to adjust the rear brake and especially the park brake. Unfortunately it is 1.4Mb PDF and I can't upload it here. I am not 100% sure if it is the same for the bar mounted park brake but since the cT has the same rear brake caliper unit it might be.
Basically you adjust the Rear Brake linkage rod travel so that it has about 1mm free play before engagement - this is measured at the clevis pin, adjust the park brake so that there is about 1 to 2mm free between the actuator arm and the stop (not 12mm as the book says) - check pedal travel 25-40mm then do the SC brake linkage rod free play at the clevis pin.
I get about 6-8 thousand kilometers from a set of Tong Tong Motors $14 pads and they work well. Posted info on then last year.
As for the circlips try using a pair of long nose pliers from the FD side of the hub.
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Post by Deano on May 4, 2020 7:27:26 GMT 10
Thanks for that Andy, all good info. I'm all good with brake adjustment. The main point of the post was to point out the potential circlip problems and hex size for those less mechanically inclined who may get stuck. And no, there are no keys in my tool roll other than metric.
Cheers
Deano
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