Post by bewildered on Feb 24, 2022 19:18:50 GMT 10
Completed first service yesterday at 519km, though perhaps someone may be interested.
Next time I reckon I will remove the sidecar, not being a contortionist and all.
Everything went OK, had to make a thing from two different size pieces of hose attached to a funnel to fill the gearbox.
Engine oil was still translucent when drained, only small amount of "fur" on the drain plug and the oil filter came off OK with the use of a decent steel band type wrench.
Filled with Penrite HPR-30 and oil filter is Lee's recommended Ryco Z608.
Gearbox oil was dark but again only a little fur on the drain plug.
Final drive oil looked a little like black metallic paint, fur on drain plug was substantial [probably as much as the magnet could hold] but no slivers, all a very fine sludge with no grittiness when rubbed between thumb and forefinger, I reckon the above is the result of lots of tooth area getting settled in and also small oil capacity available to hold the result.
I may change again at 1500 km and send off a lab sample at that time.
Plugs showed clean white insulators no colour even further down the insulators, pretty much as expected, appear to have been correctly torqued at the factory.
Standard B-7 plugs replaced with NGK B-8s torqued to 21 newton metres.
Valves were all tight .006" except RH cyl exhaust which was a trifle tighter than what I prefer, it is now also a tight .006".
Head nuts torque checked at 50 newton metres, none moved. did not back them off and re-torque.
New silicone gaskets worked a treat, I could have possibly got the std cork gaskets off in one piece but would not attempt to re-use them anyway.
Pretty much the only minor issue was a buggered dowty washer on top left rear rocker box screw, I backed it out all the way and then realised it was in the way of my 1/4" ratchet when removing the screw below it, pulled the top screw out and tore the inner seal ring which had bonded to paint on rocker box, quick trip to Pirtek sorted that out.
Started and warmed up OK, had a beer and I will ride it tomorrow.
Interesting to note that during warm up the exhaust restrictor / cat warmer valve will indeed open if the throttle is opened but will then close again at idle until the cats are hot.
Pretty easy, would be a breeze without the chair.
Next time I reckon I will remove the sidecar, not being a contortionist and all.
Everything went OK, had to make a thing from two different size pieces of hose attached to a funnel to fill the gearbox.
Engine oil was still translucent when drained, only small amount of "fur" on the drain plug and the oil filter came off OK with the use of a decent steel band type wrench.
Filled with Penrite HPR-30 and oil filter is Lee's recommended Ryco Z608.
Gearbox oil was dark but again only a little fur on the drain plug.
Final drive oil looked a little like black metallic paint, fur on drain plug was substantial [probably as much as the magnet could hold] but no slivers, all a very fine sludge with no grittiness when rubbed between thumb and forefinger, I reckon the above is the result of lots of tooth area getting settled in and also small oil capacity available to hold the result.
I may change again at 1500 km and send off a lab sample at that time.
Plugs showed clean white insulators no colour even further down the insulators, pretty much as expected, appear to have been correctly torqued at the factory.
Standard B-7 plugs replaced with NGK B-8s torqued to 21 newton metres.
Valves were all tight .006" except RH cyl exhaust which was a trifle tighter than what I prefer, it is now also a tight .006".
Head nuts torque checked at 50 newton metres, none moved. did not back them off and re-torque.
New silicone gaskets worked a treat, I could have possibly got the std cork gaskets off in one piece but would not attempt to re-use them anyway.
Pretty much the only minor issue was a buggered dowty washer on top left rear rocker box screw, I backed it out all the way and then realised it was in the way of my 1/4" ratchet when removing the screw below it, pulled the top screw out and tore the inner seal ring which had bonded to paint on rocker box, quick trip to Pirtek sorted that out.
Started and warmed up OK, had a beer and I will ride it tomorrow.
Interesting to note that during warm up the exhaust restrictor / cat warmer valve will indeed open if the throttle is opened but will then close again at idle until the cats are hot.
Pretty easy, would be a breeze without the chair.
