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Post by haitch on Jan 23, 2022 9:22:20 GMT 10
Whilst waiting for my box to arrive at EuroBrits, and for their return to work. My busy, but sometimes feeble mind has turned to "Service tools". Here is my shortlist:
Manometer for balancing throttle bodies. Spoke tensioning wrench. Parallel beams to set and check geometry. (Planning to make my own)
No doubt, as I assume ownership other stuff will come to light eg Lee's axle puller/pusher. For the stuff listed, can anyone add to my short-list? Also, can a Brand be suggested as most preferred. I will do the legwork, but a brand would be helpful. I note with a manometer, the contents can be water, ATF, Mercury and even aluminium/ss rods as used and marketed by Ural.
I understand too, that there is some value in setting up an OBD2 connection enabling use of the App for error code diagnosis and monitoring engine temp. Perhaps also revs for when using the manometer. But, that is perhaps for later. Thanks in advance. Haitch.
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Post by Uralee on Jan 23, 2022 16:03:57 GMT 10
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Post by haitch on Jan 23, 2022 16:55:11 GMT 10
Mate I completely forgot the effort you must have got to in providing the OBD info. Told you my brain was often addled. Your effort in this is really appreciated.
Thanks Lee,do you have any insights on the other stuff you may share, Brand etc. I can pm if you wish.
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Post by Uralee on Jan 23, 2022 18:29:42 GMT 10
I use a 1/4 drive Torque wrench to do spoke tension….because I have one. You can buy a motorcycle spoke torque wrench that works on the nipple without removing the tyre. While I think of it……..max 4-5 Nm There are a few ways to go with throttle balance….being well practiced at it for over 50 years, I can do it by ear. Or……
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Post by haitch on Jan 23, 2022 18:56:36 GMT 10
Thanks Lee. Lacking your experience. Guages or Manometer?
How do you use a 1/4 drive tension wrench? What sort of socket does a spoke nipple in situe. Assuming you have tyre off. Got it. I think the tension in situe is for me though I do note. Ural say more than 2 turns on any nipple (is a cripple🤣🤣) and means taking the tyre off.
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Post by Uralee on Jan 24, 2022 7:19:56 GMT 10
Tyre off. Current rims…..Nipple has internal hex…….(Allen head to some people).
Older rim nipples have 10mm hex head.
Spoke torque wrench has an open end tool attachment. They are expensive but fine……problem is, if you are on the road somewhere and need to tighten spokes (never have in all my time) your torque wrench will be happy at home in your tool box so you will just use the one in the tool kit and do it by feel.
As you will only do a balance once in a blue moon $25-30 on two gauges is fine. A manometer ($150-200) can be more accurate but if you doubt your gauges it is easy to swap them left to right as a test.
I use a length of tube in the inlet and my ear. Last time at Uralla Matt checked mine with the computer (2014-18 you can) and they were so close he doubted he could adjust them any closer……I love positive affirmation. 😇👍
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Post by Uralee on Jan 24, 2022 7:23:08 GMT 10
H, I do understand your thought process at the moment but there is no need to overthink it all. Most URAL mechanical principles and processes are fairly basic and have worked for 80 years………except when they haven’t. 😂😂😂
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Post by Wheels on Jan 24, 2022 7:53:19 GMT 10
I messed with my spokes ONCE, and stuffed it up. Had to send the wheel to Ash’s in Brisbane to fix it. Just sayin! 😎
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Post by haitch on Jan 24, 2022 8:07:58 GMT 10
Over thinking. A difficult habit to break after 15 years in mining,oil and gas being paid to think ahead as an "Engineering Planner"
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Post by haitch on Jan 24, 2022 10:57:00 GMT 10
I messed with my spokes ONCE, and stuffed it up. Had to send the wheel to Ash’s in Brisbane to fix it. Just sayin! 😎 I can understand that. The Ural manual says "check the spokes at 500km and 2500km thereafter" I assume this is a ping test using spanner/screwdriver or what ever. Not a torque test or NDT Cracktest. It is probably true to say the failure mode for cracks and split rims is over tensioning rather than under. That being the case. Is there a method to checking spoke tension by loosening and retightening in a diagonal pattern and alternating side to side on the hub? With tyre on and in situ. I know how Lee does it with the tyre and tube off. I would probably only need to do it once to establish a baseline.
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