haitch
Posts: 1,216
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Post by haitch on Mar 3, 2022 6:07:24 GMT 10
Re-researched [can you do that ?] the neutral light thing and also PM to Jon Heindl on SS. Upshot is that the neutral light switch earthing contact within the gearbox is an odd leaf spring type device attached to the selector quadrant. This can be damaged or dislodged if the reverse shifter shaft is drawn outward whilst removing the reverse shift lever, the lever should only be removed with a small two jaw gear puller. Fortunately mine apparently remains in place, later build machines have the spring thing fixed with a screw rather than the previous rivet. Drained the gearbox tonight and thankfully found no leaf spring remains on the drain plug magnet, reckon I dodged a bullet and the spring remains in place although probably a little depressed at switch contact point. I will be leaving well enough alone, the extensive SS thread mentions gear selector malfunctions [jumping out of first particularly] if switch depth is toyed with. Jon Heindl is a Gentleman. That is some seriously good research and information. I like it. Thanks Richard
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Post by Wheels on Mar 3, 2022 7:51:12 GMT 10
Just what you need on one of those steep, gravely, hairpin bends on Jacobs Ladder in Tassie!…your Ural jumping out of first gear!…ugly!😎
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haitch
Posts: 1,216
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Post by haitch on Mar 3, 2022 7:59:11 GMT 10
Not sure who may have seen it, but, Van Le has a video up regarding the Neutral Light. Just posted 2 days ago.
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Post by Wheels on Mar 3, 2022 11:19:25 GMT 10
That little spring on the quadrant in the pic is what makes the neutral light switch work. Mine is held there with a rivet, but the latest are held with a button head cap screw. What happens when you mess with the neutral light switch that spring gets damaged or bent out of position by rotating on the rivet or cap screw, when that happens your in serious trouble. When I messed with mine there was no damage to the spring, but it had rotated out of position slightly. It was touch and go getting it back into position which took many frustrating hours and a special tool I made up. I got seriously lucky, as a damaged spring can cause all sorts of problems and the only way to fix it and have an operational neutral light switch is a gearbox removal. A neutral light is a very handy item and I for one wouldn’t be without mine. Cheers Wheels.😎
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Mar 5, 2022 6:41:18 GMT 10
Are the new bikes the same? Removing the Reverse Light Toggle contact from the engine casing buy undoing the 4 screws shouldn't affect the Neutral light, so I can only think that moving the Reverse Lever shaft laterally has. The horror stories are about two different things, but both as horrible. Firstly, moving the Reverse Lever engagement shaft can cause it to dislocate from the carrier bearing / bush on the other end requiring removal of the box, However in your case it doesn't sound like that has happened. It is likely that the position of the leaf spring contact has changed due to the movement. Secondly, adjusting the Neutral light contact post can put undue pressure on the leaf spring causing it to break or worse, the contact post to falls into the box (not sure how that would happen if the box is in reverse but it has apparently...) The solution? Do what Lee said, make sure the lever is fully forward. If that doesn't work - It is under warranty so get your dealer to look at it Wheels is right, if you get it wrong it is pretty horrible - but it isn't impossible. I have successfully adjusted the Neutral light contact on several occasions (it needs to be disconnected for gearbox removal). The trick is to keep the contact post stationary, with the right size Allen key, while undoing the lock nut. In the case of gearbox removal it needs to be removed completely anyway, but to adjust it all you need to do is take the tension off the lock nut. To adjust, put the bike in Neutral, ensure it is by selecting reverse and disengaging and moving the lever all the way forward, then check the light. Insert an allen key in the contact post. Hold only, don't turn and take the tension off the lock nut. Turn the contact post clockwise a few degrees with the tip of your finger and check the light again, the trick is very small movements. I could feel it touch the leaf spring when I did mine. When the light goes solid, hold steady with the allen key and nip up the locknut. Check the light, engage and disengage reverse and check again. Go riding and have fun.
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haitch
Posts: 1,216
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Post by haitch on Mar 5, 2022 7:40:25 GMT 10
Good post. Thanks for your clarity Andy.
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haitch
Posts: 1,216
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Post by haitch on Mar 5, 2022 9:37:29 GMT 10
Andy Here is a pic of the 2022 Neutral light Adjustment screw and Locking Nut. Position looks the same.
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bewildered
Tool for reverse shift lever removal
Posts: 276
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Post by bewildered on Apr 13, 2022 16:46:18 GMT 10
Cheers Andy I "grew a pair" and adjusted as you suggested, reckon the contact only went in maybe .005" or less and neutral light is back and gearbox works fine.
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Apr 14, 2022 6:13:37 GMT 10
... the contact only went in maybe .005" or less and neutral light is back and gearbox works fine. Just passing on sage knowledge from Chris D - I miss being able to run an idea by him and see that look on his face. He was always to kind enough not to call me an idiot
Anything over a full turn and I would suspect a broken leaf spring.
I had an idea once to pull the box down and Chris advised against it. His experience was that the kick start spring was so difficult it wasn't worth the effort, and now that I have seen a video that shows how to successfully engage the kick start spring I am thinking about pulling the box down to find out why the shift from 3rd to 2nd is (and always has been) horrible.
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bewildered
Tool for reverse shift lever removal
Posts: 276
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Post by bewildered on Oct 10, 2022 20:59:11 GMT 10
Re-researched [can you do that ?] the neutral light thing and also PM to Jon Heindl on SS. Upshot is that the neutral light switch earthing contact within the gearbox is an odd leaf spring type device attached to the selector quadrant. This can be damaged or dislodged if the reverse shifter shaft is drawn outward whilst removing the reverse shift lever, the lever should only be removed with a small two jaw gear puller. Fortunately mine apparently remains in place, later build machines have the spring thing fixed with a screw rather than the previous rivet. Drained the gearbox tonight and thankfully found no leaf spring remains on the drain plug magnet, reckon I dodged a bullet and the spring remains in place although probably a little depressed at switch contact point. I will be leaving well enough alone, the extensive SS thread mentions gear selector malfunctions [jumping out of first particularly] if switch depth is toyed with. Jon Heindl is a Gentleman. Tool ex Communist China for $8.75. Would have been good to learn of the hazard prior to my near misadventure. www.ebay.com.au/itm/124994913007Arrived today and well up to the job, took a month.
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