andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Apr 2, 2022 5:02:47 GMT 10
I have developed a small ridge on the outer edge of the rear brake disk that makes it difficult to pull the caliper off the disk and in turn makes changing the back wheel a PITA.
Looks like there is enough meat to skim the disk, scrap or minimum thickness is etched on the disk but illegible, so three questions.
Does anyone grind disks anymore?
Who?
Anyone know the scrap thickness?
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Post by haitch on Apr 2, 2022 8:05:28 GMT 10
I have developed a small ridge on the outer edge of the rear brake disk that makes it difficult to pull the caliper off the disk and in turn makes changing the back wheel a PITA.
Looks like there is enough meat to skim the disk, scrap or minimum thickness is etched on the disk but illegible, so three questions.
Does anyone grind disks anymore?
Who?
Anyone know the scrap thickness?
There is nothing in my 2022 manual. Only minimum pad thickness. Sorry. |
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Post by michaelk on Apr 2, 2022 18:21:17 GMT 10
Hi,
I have no idea about the thickness. Try some soap and water, or light work with a pot scourer, you might be able to read the details on the disc.
Any automotive brake shop will be able to skim your disc.
Even a reasonable new car dealer, or depending where you are, a mechanic, ( Mazda, Toyota, etc) should have a skimmer.
Cheers.
Mick
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bewildered
Tool for reverse shift lever removal
Posts: 276
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Post by bewildered on Apr 2, 2022 21:11:59 GMT 10
Stainless discs must be ground [grinded ?] rather than cut with a tool bit, stainless will immediately work harden and take the edge off a tool designed to true iron discs.
Way back I found a bloke who could not only do that but would also machine a disc hub to take out gross warping of Kawasaki 900 / 1000 discs before grinding the disc.
David Hale died when his new girlfriend drove through a stop sign onto Nepean Hwy.
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Post by Uralee on Apr 3, 2022 8:50:52 GMT 10
Two things Andy.
You should push the piston back into the caliper by “rocking” the caliper hard by hand or a little leverage with a screwdriver…..carefully of course, to give clearance. You need to do this completely to fit new pads anyway.
For just the tiny lip you may have, you could carefully remove it with a bench or disc grinder but I doubt this is necessary and always best practice to leave as much material on a disc as possible for heat dissipation.
With discs that develop a large lip (cars mainly) we chamfer grind the new pads so they don’t sit on the lip.
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Apr 3, 2022 13:56:51 GMT 10
Thanks Lee, the idea of gently grinding off the lip is what I needed to hear - won't be taking much off at all. I have the piston push back down to a fine art and it is very easy with the park brake lever off and the actuator screwed out. I keep the sliders lubricated so the pads can be retracted with finger pressure normally, if not I find a punch used between the pads and above the disk so that it bears on the pad plates and not material which works well. The problem is probably my fault, I don't remove the caliper from the axle mount, I just take it off the stabilizing arm, then lift the whole thing out in one piece. Because of that it needs a bit more room and the lip catches. Way back I found a bloke who could not only do that but would also machine a disc hub to take out gross warping of Kawasaki 900 / 1000 discs before grinding the disc... He probably made a fortune from Honda CB900 and 750 owners, the rear brake pedal adjust went through the footpeg and worked by screwing it down. When you lost the lock nut the adjuster would slowly screw down and apply the rear brake. Brilliant, because when you stopped to figure out who stole your horses the disk would warp. |
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oldmate
Plus co-pilot of 44 years
Posts: 236
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Post by oldmate on Apr 27, 2022 14:07:56 GMT 10
I always take the pads out of the caliper before removing the caliper. with a bit of practice getting them back in it is easy and it negates the problem you have which I have also. Be careful with the clips. I carry some spares.
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