andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Oct 8, 2022 4:45:58 GMT 10
Just to wrap this up, the plates have been changed and the box is back on. A few tips and tricks: If you put witness marks on the outer end of the screw heads you can see them after removing the starter motor. They are not peened/punched like the old slotted ones. Marking the clutch release rod with a bit of white marker lets you know when it is fully engaged. There are several ways to do this but I just use a pair of long nosed pliers and twist and feed the rod in until it seats. I tried using a piece of tube and air pressure, but never quite got it to set correctly. Doing it with the pliers means you can fully assemble the actuator rod and slider before you put the box in.
The delay was getting a new clutch rod seal, forgot to order it. As you can see the old one on the right has some wear.
The biggest takeaway was that holding the box by the ring where the starter motor sits and having your other hand under the reverse leaver to wiggle the output shaft works every time. It gives you better control over the angle of the box against the engine.
That's about it, I will update the first post with consumables.
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Dec 4, 2022 5:01:37 GMT 10
Finally got time to do a few 250K break in runs. The new springs are a lot lighter than the old ones, something someone over at SS confirmed. I only had anecdotal evidence and I did change the cable so maybe that helped. I have had to fine tune the cable a few times as the 'new lightness' has given the bike a whole new feel. The marble in a glass jar sound is still there when the clutch is disengaged (free) so a decent set of ear plugs fixes that. Best result is that Fuel consumption has dropped by almost half a liter / hundred suggesting the old plates were slipping. Looking at them I couldn't tell.
Did I need to change them? Probably not, but it is an easy job and made a world of difference.
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