|
Post by haitch on Oct 23, 2022 17:16:12 GMT 10
Hi Paul. Many thanks for your time and contribution.
|
|
|
Post by miker on Oct 23, 2022 19:11:48 GMT 10
The alignment question all seems quite subjective. I've never measured my toe in or lean out. What I did find is that it tended to pull quite severely, even on an even throttle, to the left. More on up-hill right handers, to the point of being almost impossible to control. This was from the factory.
Over 6,700 kms, I've adjusted the toe out at the rear clamp by about 1mm on the clamp. It looks now more like the little white cross the factory made when building it is now in the right spot. It didn't look like the dealer had it in the right place. I've also gradually wound out the top struts a total of about 4 turns in single turn increments. It now steers very evenly and still pulls on uphill rights, but is much more controllable and doesn't feel like it's scrubbing. It actually feels like its running true.
Don't forget too, the harder you ride the more that rear tyre is going to wear, but so long as it's wearing evenly and, as Lee said (Hi Lee) it steers well, in my opinion measurements are for nothing.
Then, all this will change when you load up with gear and a passenger, or fit a sidecar screen or...... the list goes on.
|
|
|
Post by haitch on Oct 23, 2022 21:20:31 GMT 10
The alignment question all seems quite subjective. I've never measured my toe in or lean out. What I did find is that it tended to pull quite severely, even on an even throttle, to the left. More on up-hill right handers, to the point of being almost impossible to control. This was from the factory. Over 6,700 kms, I've adjusted the toe out at the rear clamp by about 1mm on the clamp. It looks now more like the little white cross the factory made when building it is now in the right spot. It didn't look like the dealer had it in the right place. I've also gradually wound out the top struts a total of about 4 turns in single turn increments. It now steers very evenly and still pulls on uphill rights, but is much more controllable and doesn't feel like it's scrubbing. It actually feels like its running true. Don't forget too, the harder you ride the more that rear tyre is going to wear, but so long as it's wearing evenly and, as Lee said (Hi Lee) it steers well, in my opinion measurements are for nothing. Then, all this will change when you load up with gear and a passenger, or fit a sidecar screen or...... the list goes on. Thanks Mike. Good to hear.
|
|
|
Post by Wheels on Oct 24, 2022 8:35:02 GMT 10
Couldn’t help noticing toe in for Dual Wheel Drive?
|
|
|
Post by haitch on Oct 24, 2022 9:11:28 GMT 10
Couldn’t help noticing toe in for Dual Wheel Drive? Hi Paul. Yes, I noticed that too. It seems to suggest there is no toe in?? for the dual wheel drive?? I believe the 2wd sidecar axle is positioned further back. This provides a better angle for the cross shaft universals. Toe in for 2wd is 3-8mm. Single wheel drive is 8-12mm. Which as Lee said "the sidecar wheel toe-in is relative to the rear wheel" NOT the front axle. Which is touted as the second reference point.
|
|
|
Post by Wheels on Oct 24, 2022 10:01:38 GMT 10
The way I see it H, is the toe in measurement reference point (axle centres) is to establish a common ground for the recommended spec at those points. Any other points between the axle centres will produce a significantly less toe in measurement which is fine. Eg 10mm at axle centres produce 2-3mm if measuring where Lee does. Maybe I’ve got it wrong!
|
|
|
Post by haitch on Oct 24, 2022 22:00:22 GMT 10
The way I see it H, is the toe in measurement reference point (axle centres) is to establish a common ground for the recommended spec at those points. Any other points between the axle centres will produce a significantly less toe in measurement which is fine. Eg 10mm at axle centres produce 2-3mm if measuring where Lee does. Maybe I’ve got it wrong! My thinking too. I did a recheck today and took some more accurate dimensions between front axle and rear. 27mm by the time you transpose the length of the bar from sc axle to front axle, is 1280mm you get a theoretical 5 mm "toe in" at the sc wheel. Besides. What else can you do with this sh*tful weather. Thanks Paul. Learning all the time. Even if 🐌
|
|
|
Post by Uralee on Oct 25, 2022 19:04:51 GMT 10
“Dual wheel drive” would be 1950 URAL/Dnepr which had a differential. Both wheels driving eliminated the pull. Current 2wd has different measurement to 1wd as the sc wheel “lead” is less.
……By far easiest to measure toe in by degrees (3mm wheel toe in = 0.5 degree)…….Just need $5-6000 for the cheapest machines. I will stick to my tape measure. 😂
|
|
|
Post by haitch on Oct 26, 2022 7:32:50 GMT 10
More checks yesterday. Searching for a repeatable process. I found using Lee's technique gets my tape measure tangled up in the 2 into 1 exhaust "y" pieces and the centre stand. Instead, I still used the beams but started from behind the sc wheel. Projecting across at 90 degrees through the rear wheel to the other beam. Same in front of the sc wheel across to the beam between front wheel and rear wheel. The difference between these measures gave me 6 to 8mm. So, 7mm of toe in. I used a cheap "Klein" digital angle device magnetically attached to front then rear rotor. Verifying lean out at 1.3mm front and rear.The beam between front and pusher keeps the two wheels in line, necessary for this measure. Overall, I am quite happy with my dealer setup. If I need to change anything, it won't happen without some more focused testing.
|
|