Chassis Alignment. Toe in and Lean out.

I noted on some older youtube instructional that the sidecar frame is also levelled front to rear. Is this practice still valid for the newer models??

3.3 Sidecar Alignment
The sidecar must be aligned in a definite position relative to the motorcycle. The sidecar wheel is angled slightly towards the front of the motorcycle, and the motorcycle itself must be leaned out, away from the sidecar (Fig. 3.3-1). An incorrectly aligned sidecar will drag the motorcycle to either side , which not only makes the combination difficult to handle, but also causes excessive tire wear. It is very important to check sidecar alignment at scheduled maintenance intervals. If the motorcycle is not stable on the road and is difficult to steer, check alignment as well as steering head bearing adjustment.
Alignment is best accomplished on a smooth level floor.
Toe-in
Toe-in is checked by placing a straight edge along the motorcycle wheels and a straight edge along and the sidecar wheel, and measuring the distance between the two straight edges. A solid straight edge helps hold the front wheel in line with the rear wheel, and forms a measurement line parallel to the centerline of the motorcycle. The spacing between the straight edges at front and rear determine the toe-in. Measurement points are below the front and rear axles of the motorcycle. Take care to measure along a line perpendicular to the straight edge, and to keep both straight edges in contact with the tires.
Recommended toe-in is 3/8 inch / 10 mm. That is, toe-in is correct when spacing between the two straight edges at the front axle is 3/8 inch / 10 mm less than that at the rear axle. Toe-in is adjusted by easing off the fastening bolt holding the lower rear clamping bracket in the sidecar frame, and sliding the clamping bracket in or out of the sidecar frame tube. Adjusting the position of the rear clamping bracket also affects the position of the upper rear strut ("tie-rod"), so the upper strut bolts should be slacked off while making the toe-in adjustment, and lean-out will subsequently require correction.
Lean-out
Recommended lean-out is 1 degree. That is, the motorcycle should lean out (away from the sidecar) approximately 1 degree, with the motorcycle resting on wheels, not the center stand, and the suspension compressed with the approximate weight of the operator (1 degree lean-out is equivalent to approximately 1/2 inch / 12 mm lean-out between handlebar level and floor). If the motorcycle is on a level floor, lean-out can be checked using a level gauge and a protractor, or with a plump bob and a ruler. When installing a new sidecar for the first time, lean-out can be estimated by observing the motorcycle from the rear with an operator sitting on the saddle. The motorcycle should lean perceptibly to the left, not perpendicular to the floor.
Adjust leanout by easing off torque on the lower collet bolts, loosening the lock nuts on the upper struts (the two inclined legs), removing the upper strut attachment bolts, and screwing the forked clevises in or out.
NOTE: When making either toe-in or lean-out adjustments, make corrections in small increments, then recheck. Very small adjustments in position of the rear connector will have large results in toe-in.
CAUTION: With both bolts removed from the sidecar struts, the motorcycle can tip away from the sidecar, with subsequent damage to fittings. Manually support the motorcycle when making the leanout adjustment.
When leanout is adjusted to the recommended specifications, snug up all connectors, then recheck toe-in. Fine tuning of leanout is accomplished by road testing the motorcycle.
Tighten all bolts securely. Tightening torques are:
• collet clamping bolts
25 ft/lb. / 40 Nm
• sidecar tie-rods
33 ft/lb / 4 Nm
Road Testing
The true test of toe-in and lean-out adjustment is a road test, preferably on a smooth, straight, level, paved road with typical camber slanting off towards the right. At a steady speed of 40 mph, the motorcycle should not pull to either side while running at normal road speed. If the outfit pulls to the right, leanout should be increased to 2° or more, as required. If it pulls to the left, decrease the lean-out. The owner can be of best help by observing the handling characteristics, and reporting back at subsequent service opportunities.

The diagram from Wheels is a good illustration. I just prefer to measure from the wheel for simplicity.
Bottom line is…..however you do it, or maybe don’t ever do it, if it steers straight and does not chew out tyres then all is good.

KISS method is king. 😘

Thanks everyone. Great information.
I think it is fairer to say clarification of poor instructional videos and text. Rather than over thinking. My thinking has provided much clarity around the process. For which you all have contributed, with much thanks.
My latest measurements for "toe-in" suggest about 5mm to 6mm relative to the rear wheel. NOT the front as almost every text and video demands.Lean out varies with load as mentioned. For me 1.2 degrees. Add my weight. 1.9 degrees. Add passenger and it drops back to 1.5 degrees. All within specs.
It makes perfect sense to me that 5 or 6mm toe in at the sc wheel, when translated to a measurement taken through the front axle, would be significantly larger.
I think the folks who produce YouTube stuff and or write instructionals, should try to actually follow there own process's. Particularly regarding "toe-in" measurements at the FRONT axle. Are you listening Ilya and David? Don't forget to revise the last paragraph which is still in American LH Drive and not applicable.