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Post by keith on Jun 5, 2021 12:12:19 GMT 10
Hi all I’m clocking up a few kms and planning my first service.
I’m considering just doing it myself , the dealer shop is 45 minutes away , need to book in.
Now about my “spannering” ability. I can do most things myself , change oil , check spark plug gaps , change tubes on the side of road etc. I’m a sparky by trade and electronics engineer. So electrical stuff is usually not a problem.
The first service is change oil in engine , gearbox and drive. Check to see how much metal is in there, then worry if there is a lot? I think I can do that, no worries , if there seems like a lot of swarf I’d book a Dealer service and get them to check it out.
The only really new thing to me would be inspect valve clearances. I’d need to do some research on how to do it.
The other stuff is general inspection. Loose bolts. Grease final drive ? Did I need a grease gun? Need to look into this in more detail as well.
Anyway , what are your thoughts ?
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Post by Deano on Jun 5, 2021 14:00:25 GMT 10
Keith,
Very easy to service. As you say valve check is probably hardest part mainly due to accessing left side. Not hard though. Easy bike to work on. my dealer doesn't mind as some Urals are hours if not days away.
Cheers
Deano
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Post by Uralee on Jun 5, 2021 15:02:49 GMT 10
Accessing left side valves (for Oz)......having done it many times, I find it easier to lift the SC and access from the front rather than leaning over the bike. Rubber mat under the r/h crash bar and a prop under the SC for safety.
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Post by keith on Jun 5, 2021 17:35:29 GMT 10
Ok thanks guys. I need a grease gun , and I need a torque wrench. Any suggestions ? What do you guys use. Also do I need a new valve cover gasket each time I check them , does the gasket survive ?
Where do you buy oil filters ? Do you buy from Ural Australia website ? I see they have a kit. (Basic Service Kit EFI models - 2 x filters, 3 x Crush Washers, 1 x Fuel Filter, 3 x Clamps $86.50 (Value $94.20))
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Post by Deano on Jun 5, 2021 18:06:31 GMT 10
Keith,
Get a needle attachment ($15) on the gun ($25 @ Bunnings) to grease universals. No way on mine a std. grease gun coupling will go on even with the drive disassembled without grinding a serious flat on the coupling. Valve cover gasket good for maybe 3 removals. Get a sheet of 1.7mm cork/nitrile gasket off the interweb ($15) and cut your own ($35ea. from Ural). Can't think of equivalent oil filters at the 'mo, others will chip in. However they're not much cheaper than Urals. So price for the kit sounds good to me. From personal experience the Ural(Oz) website never replies, useless.
Cheers
Deano
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Post by Uralee on Jun 5, 2021 19:36:02 GMT 10
Oil filter Ryco Z608 Any auto store
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Jun 6, 2021 8:31:15 GMT 10
Keith, The dealer network in Aus is a bit hit and miss, the only reason I would get the first service done is to see what they are like and if you would feel comfortable going back to them for something a bit more challenging. If you have the means then buy from Ural Australia - it supports them and the bike in Aus. Clare and Mat have always answered my enquiries and always promptly dispatched my orders. You will need a manometer to check throttle body sync, although I hear the cable and software is much cheaper for the Gen II machines. Checking cylinder stud nuts gets a mixed reaction here. Some say that due to it being a compression gasket it is not necessary - personally on a first service I would check it to make sure the factory remembered to do them up. Cork gaskets are rubbish and are only good for a couple of changes as Deano said. For what it is worth write down the valve clearance before and after. It will give you a baseline and identify creep caused by yaks cheese rockers. I pull the rear wheel and final drive to grease the uni because it gives me a chance to check all the wheel / disk cap heads, clean the FD, clean and re-lube the splines and check Uni and FD movement. Tightness of spokes - be careful with that. Overtightning causes the rims to crack - Hopefully you haven't got any pre 2015 rims that happily crack regardless of spoke tension Side Car alignment - plenty of information available to make a set of cheap poles and take the measurements (or borrow a set like I did) - I believe this is important to do at least once because there are plenty of stories of misaligned chairs coming from Dealer delivery. Doing it now gives you a baseline. Take photos and enjoy getting to know your bike.
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Post by Uralee on Jun 6, 2021 9:52:46 GMT 10
Keith, The dealer network in Aus is a bit hit and miss, the only reason I would get the first service done is to see what they are like and if you would feel comfortable going back to them for something a bit more challenging. Agree, but if you know what you are doing.......you will know exactly what has been done to your bike.If you have the means then buy from Ural Australia - it supports them and the bike in Aus. Clare and Mat have always answered my enquiries and always promptly dispatched my orders. Agree....You will need a manometer to check throttle body sync, although I hear the cable and software is much cheaper for the Gen II machines. Gen II software does not do throttle sync...... use vac gauge, manometer or ear. Fittings are on throttle bodies now.Checking cylinder stud nuts gets a mixed reaction here. Some say that due to it being a compression gasket it is not necessary - personally on a first service I would check it to make sure the factory remembered to do them up. Cork gaskets are rubbish and are only good for a couple of changes as Deano said. Chances are you will do more harm than good by disturbing the composite headgaskets unless you really do know what you are doing.🤣 Cork gaskets do require care for re-use.
For what it is worth write down the valve clearance before and after. It will give you a baseline and identify creep caused by yaks cheese rockers. A record is good....yaks cheese I have not tried. I pull the rear wheel and final drive to grease the uni because it gives me a chance to check all the wheel / disk cap heads, clean the FD, clean and re-lube the splines and check Uni and FD movement. Good maintenance and gaining bike knowledge.
Tightness of spokes - be careful with that. Overtightning causes the rims to crack - Hopefully you haven't got any pre 2015 rims that happily crack regardless of spoke tension It is a new bike.....suspect rims were 8 years ago. Some spokes have been overtightened in the past as well. 2021 bikes now have Japanese alloy rims and look really really good. Max spoke tension 5Nm
Side Car alignment - plenty of information available to make a set of cheap poles and take the measurements (or borrow a set like I did) - I believe this is important to do at least once because there are plenty of stories of misaligned chairs coming from Dealer delivery. Doing it now gives you a baseline. Agree. I think some of the dealers just just bolt up to the factory marks. Final settings depends on a few personal variables.
Take photos and enjoy getting to know your bike. ABSOLUTELY......👍🤣🤣For anyone that wants to bring their new bike to my place, I am happy to supervise and advise while you do your service......it has been my lifetime profession. I am south of Melbourne though......😜 Lee 😷
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Post by keith on Jun 6, 2021 12:06:28 GMT 10
Thanks guys , all great advice.
Another question about finding TDC. Some videos show a mark/arrow and removing the spark plug. Some go by both push rods being loose and can turn by hand. What method do you guys use to find TDC?
Do you do the valve adjustment during the oil change or before ?
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Post by Uralee on Jun 6, 2021 13:57:18 GMT 10
Engine needs to be as cold as my ex for valve adjustment. You do not need to know where TDC is. One pair of valves “rocking” adjust the other side.
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