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Post by maccaoz on Sept 30, 2018 15:49:59 GMT 10
IKON USA has had a few yanks from SS testing out several sets of shocks.They fit,test,remove,report then send them on to the next tester.
All ongoing but with the odd little fitting problem everybody is giving them 👍
Great that Rick is giving them the Oz test and they are working so well.
Im thinking 2 on the front could be OK but 🤔
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roscoau
Life? Don't talk to me about life!
Posts: 838 
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Post by roscoau on Sept 30, 2018 16:05:51 GMT 10
I'll be in line when they become available!
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Oct 1, 2018 8:08:04 GMT 10
I am not sure I need them but I am finding that my lower back is telling me I have overdone it after bad roads. Oh and Macca that short cut on Mt Glorious is a bad road given that is is meant to be tar...
Roscoau - I thought they were available as 7610-1664 - SP14 ?
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Post by maccaoz on Oct 1, 2018 14:26:02 GMT 10
I am not sure I need them but I am finding that my lower back is telling me I have overdone it after bad roads. Oh and Macca that short cut on Mt Glorious is a bad road given that is is meant to be tar... Roscoau - I thought they were available as 7610-1664 - SP14 ? That short cut aint so bad , unless your on a Aprilla V4 Its smooth on a KLR,fairly smooth on a WeeStrom ,not too bad on a Grom ,not great on AJ ,but the step son refuses to take his Aprilla on it again 😂😂 |
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roscoau
Life? Don't talk to me about life!
Posts: 838
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Post by roscoau on Oct 1, 2018 14:42:24 GMT 10
The ones being tested in the US are the cheaper model without damping adjustment and therefore cheaper to buy. They are exactly the same otherwise and I don't think the adjustment would be needed on a Ural.
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Post by LX Rick on Oct 2, 2018 3:20:56 GMT 10
The damping adjustment makes a huge difference to the ride. The shocks I have have 4 damping settings. I have them set on 1, the lowest setting. If I set them on 2, the bike shudders on braking ruts in the dirt because the suspension reacts slower causing it to react too slow to follow the ruts.
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Dec 27, 2018 10:27:44 GMT 10
Got some!!
Fitted a set of Ikon 7610-1664-SP14 to the front.
No fitting issues except it took me a while to figure out the bottom mount was threaded on the inside lug - lucky I didn't go Ivan on it and get a bigger hammer.
They clear the front brake reaction bar.
These things soak up the road, I noticed the difference just pulling out my driveway. They also seemed to hold the tire to the road longer in a hard right and under acceleration.
I swapped them out to the back, put an old rear on the front to replace the leaking shock and did a lazy 220 kilometers. For the rear, they need an extra washer to seat the top mount properly.
The difference is staggering. The ride far more comfortable and the bike seems more settled and less wallowy.
I will be getting two more. At this stage I don't see the need to get one for the chair.
Would I dump a perfectly good set of OEM shocks for these?
Probably not.
But if I had the cash to spare it would be my first choice of aftermarket bling.
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Feb 13, 2019 6:29:02 GMT 10
Just thought I would give you an update on the Ikons.
When I went out to Rosewood I had the Pre-load and Damping set to the lowest setting on all 4 shocks.
As Macca said it was a bit wallowy / spongy. Plenty of travel in the front and rear. On the dirt it was a bit like riding on an old Massey Ferguson but it steered and rode well. We increased the pre-load on the front shocks to the first setting and nearly amputated Chris' finger but it made the ride a lot better.
Over the weekend I had a look at the whole set up, took a few measurements and made some adjustments. On a chair without the bike I would adjust for sag by adding a small amount of pre-load (Or increasing the spring rating) but I am not sure the same applies? If the chair isn't moving and the bike is then I think I am going to need another shock for the chair side. I have added one step of pre-load to the front and back which makes a huge difference to the ride but something is still not quite right and I think the chair is too stiff which acts against the rest of the geometry.
As for the Damping - the first setting is fine on the front, I dialed it up to 2 and the result was a weird loss of traction on the front up hill on lefts and rights - very disconcerting. (LXRick mentions this above)
However dialing the damping on the rear up to 2 made it seem more settled.
To go a bit further I dialed the Pre-load on the rear to 3 and it was like having the Sachs shocks back on without the horrible jarring when you hit a bit rut.
With Pre-load at 1 and Damping at 1, I came down Mountain View Road under brakes and never once lost traction with the front. The rear continued to provide a braking force only slipping occasionally on loose stuff.
When I did that with the Sachs shocks I honestly just held on for dear life and hoped I was going in the right direction.
After 500k's in the saddle my back isn't aching and my neck isn't sore - that makes it worth the effort.
Once again, I probably wouldn't throw a good set of OEM shocks out for these but they do make a huge difference.
Has anyone tried Koni's ?
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Post by Uralee on Feb 13, 2019 8:25:45 GMT 10
Andy, my “other” outfit is set very soft on bike and standard Ural stiff on sidecar......works very well. Going soft on the SC is the last thing I would try.......but do tell if you do.
Cheers, lee
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andyh
2015 Tourist
Posts: 953
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Post by andyh on Feb 14, 2019 4:11:28 GMT 10
Going soft on the SC is the last thing I would try. Do you have ballast in the chair? I am really interested to see how mine goes this weekend with an extra 55-60 kilograms |
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