EFI - Reading the ECU's - 2014 to 2018 only
May 22, 2018 17:17:39 GMT 10
chrisdips, Piper, and 2 more like this
Post by andyh on May 22, 2018 17:17:39 GMT 10
I have been following an enormous thread on Soviet Steeds for months now. It showed a way to read the engine ECU's and balance the throttle bodies.
Given my recent dealings with an authorized ''servicing agent'' I felt it was a good time to invest in the parts needed to do this myself (Throttle body sync is recommended for each 5K service interval. For me, it is the only thing I wasn't able to do on the service list)
Assembled all the parts yesterday, installed all the software last night and finally today managed to get it working without expensive smoke escaping from the throttle units
The photo shows the idle RPM at 649 and the left throttle at 30 kPa and Right at 31. The engine wasn't warm, I just wanted to get a photo. Later it settled into an 800 RPM idle but maintained the throttle body difference.
Revved up to 2000 RPM the right maintains a few kPa higher than the left.
My dashboard is pretty bare and there are plenty of other visuals I can add but I have a ton of reading to do and just wanted to prove the cable and software.
It is a start - anyone know what the 2015 idle speed is meant to be?
I have read elsewhere that it is 1050 which seems a bit high to me. Have the service manual on order with Clare so that should confirm it.
EDIT: - To read my ECU's on my 2015 tourist here is what I did - I say that because you may choose a different path and have better results, who knows. If you read the thread over at Soviet Steeds you will see a lot of information squeezed into 28 pages, but the information on the first post is the most important. Motorcycle Mariner has put together simple How to videos and listed the effective user defined PID's (parameter ID) that OBDWiz (the software) can use.
You need to decide how you want to read the ECU's. By that I mean do you want to use a cable from the bike to a laptop?
A Bluetooth Device to an Android Phone or even an adapter to an iPhone?
I used the cable because I am comfortable with that. If you want to use a Bluetooth or iPhone tool then you need to pour through the info over at Soviet Steeds.
So where to start if you want the cable version?
Acquire an OBDLink SX Scan Tool and an OBDII extension cable (right angle J1962 Male to straight J1962 Female - Scantool Item Number 144301). I bought both these from Scantool.net - and they arrived by economy mail in under 2 weeks. The extension cable I got was 6 foot long which is overkill. Even if you are going to strap your laptop into the chair and go for a ride you only need a few feet and a 2 foot one is available (Scantool Item number - 144302).
OBDLink SX Cable
OBDII complaint J1962 male end cut off.
The other thing you need is a way to connect to your OBDII cable to your diagnostic port.
Diagnostic port circled on my bike. (without the female Molex connector)
I used the Molex MX150L Female plug that was already on my bike - not sure if everyone has one or not. I have also ordered one from RS_Online (RS stock number 511-0168 - Molex Number 19418-0011) as I think it is a great weather shield and will protect the existing socket.
Which ever one you use you will need to aquire Qty 4 Molex MX150L 192420 Crimp Terminal Contact Female. 22-18AWG, tin plated (RS Stock number 511-0073, Molex Number 19420-0010).
Good news, if you PM me I will give you my address and for the cost of a self addressed envelope with a $1 stamp I will send you 6 of the suckers. I had to buy 100 so grab them before they disappear
If you have the Molex MX150L Female connector and the OBDII compliant cable with J1962 ends you can start building the connector cable.
Have a look inside the ends to see if the pins are numbered. Mine weren't but the 1 and 8 and 9 and 16 pins were identified. For this cable you only really need to figure out what colours correspond to which pins. Unfortunately there is no 'standard' colour lay out so you need to do it the old fashioned way with an ohm meter. There are two ways to approach this. Motorcycle Mariner says to cut the Male end off the OBDII compliant Cable, splay the wires on the bit you cut off, strip and test then record your results. He does this because it is easier to probe and open pin as opposed to the closed pin on the female end. The other way is to cut off the male end, strip the now male less end and stick a paper clip in the female end, test record.
You need to identify the colour of the wires leading to Pins 4,5,6,14 and 16. You may find, like I did, that the wire for pin 4 is bare and not insulated.
From the Ural Wiring Diagram 2014-16 the Molex MX150L connector on the bike only has 4 wires going to it. You need to identify 5 on the OBDII compliant cable because 2 are ground sources, one chassis. The numbers on the wiring diagram have nothing to do with the Molex numbers or OBDII number - ignore them.
With the Pin colours identified, bring forth your soldering skills. Mine came courtesy of a grateful Govt who showed me how NASA did it - most of which I forgot.
Tin four bits of standard automotive 3mm or 4mm wire on both ends. Attach a Molex MX150L 192420 Crimp Terminal Contact Female, 22-18AWG, tin plated to one end of each wire by crimp, plier or teeth. Follow the Molex insertion diagram to push them into the back of the plug - The plug does have numbers on the back - the wires need to go into holes 1-2-4 and 5 so looking at the connector as it would be on the bike the left hand top and center pin hole and the bottom left and center pin hole.
Plug numbers looking at the plug as it would be fitted to the bike
Now for the interesting bit and where most people seem to get confused.
Attach the wire leading to Pin 1 on the Female Molex connector (top left looking at the back as though it was on the bike) to the wire colour you have identified for Pin 6 on the OBDII cable.
Attach the wire leading to Pin 2 on the Female Molex connector (top center looking at the back as though it was on the bike) to the wire colour you have identified for Pin 4 and Pin 5 on the OBDII cable.
Attach the wire leading to Pin 4 on the Female Molex connector (bottom left looking at the back as though it was on the bike) to the wire colour you have identified for Pin 14 on the OBDII cable.
Attach the wire leading to Pin 5 on the Female Molex connector (bottom left looking at the back as though it was on the bike) to the wire colour you have identified for Pin 16 on the OBDII cable.
Tin the end and solder is preferable. Add heat shrink before you solder if you want.
You now have a cable. I double checked it to make sure I had correct continuity
Finished OBDII Compliant connection cable - J1962 Female to Molex MX150L Female
If you have received your OBDLink SX Scantool use the link on the quick-start instructions to download and install the OBDWiz software. There was no activation key as mentioned on Soviet Steeds. Version 4.2 is activated online.
Follow the quick start instructions to Activate your tool and receive a licence key. Unlike Motorcycle Mariner I didn't have to turn on the run (fuel pump) switch on.
I then disconnected everything from the bike and went on-line to buy the Professional Add On. Register an account with OBDLink.com and when you log on your copy of the standard software will be unlocked.
You will get a confusing email asking you to use a download button but that has been removed - If Professional Add-On and the word Yes appear in your licence information screen on OBDWiz then it is loaded and you can continue.
You should be able to follow the info over at SS to set the User defined PID's and Dashboard up - you don't need to be connected to do that.
I set up a basic dashboard to test the connection and make sure I got everything right and it worked.
All sound too much like hard work?
Happy to answer questions.
Given my recent dealings with an authorized ''servicing agent'' I felt it was a good time to invest in the parts needed to do this myself (Throttle body sync is recommended for each 5K service interval. For me, it is the only thing I wasn't able to do on the service list)
Assembled all the parts yesterday, installed all the software last night and finally today managed to get it working without expensive smoke escaping from the throttle units
The photo shows the idle RPM at 649 and the left throttle at 30 kPa and Right at 31. The engine wasn't warm, I just wanted to get a photo. Later it settled into an 800 RPM idle but maintained the throttle body difference.
Revved up to 2000 RPM the right maintains a few kPa higher than the left.
My dashboard is pretty bare and there are plenty of other visuals I can add but I have a ton of reading to do and just wanted to prove the cable and software.
It is a start - anyone know what the 2015 idle speed is meant to be?
I have read elsewhere that it is 1050 which seems a bit high to me. Have the service manual on order with Clare so that should confirm it.
EDIT: - To read my ECU's on my 2015 tourist here is what I did - I say that because you may choose a different path and have better results, who knows. If you read the thread over at Soviet Steeds you will see a lot of information squeezed into 28 pages, but the information on the first post is the most important. Motorcycle Mariner has put together simple How to videos and listed the effective user defined PID's (parameter ID) that OBDWiz (the software) can use.
You need to decide how you want to read the ECU's. By that I mean do you want to use a cable from the bike to a laptop?
A Bluetooth Device to an Android Phone or even an adapter to an iPhone?
I used the cable because I am comfortable with that. If you want to use a Bluetooth or iPhone tool then you need to pour through the info over at Soviet Steeds.
So where to start if you want the cable version?
Acquire an OBDLink SX Scan Tool and an OBDII extension cable (right angle J1962 Male to straight J1962 Female - Scantool Item Number 144301). I bought both these from Scantool.net - and they arrived by economy mail in under 2 weeks. The extension cable I got was 6 foot long which is overkill. Even if you are going to strap your laptop into the chair and go for a ride you only need a few feet and a 2 foot one is available (Scantool Item number - 144302).
OBDLink SX Cable
OBDII complaint J1962 male end cut off.
The other thing you need is a way to connect to your OBDII cable to your diagnostic port.
Diagnostic port circled on my bike. (without the female Molex connector)
I used the Molex MX150L Female plug that was already on my bike - not sure if everyone has one or not. I have also ordered one from RS_Online (RS stock number 511-0168 - Molex Number 19418-0011) as I think it is a great weather shield and will protect the existing socket.
Which ever one you use you will need to aquire Qty 4 Molex MX150L 192420 Crimp Terminal Contact Female. 22-18AWG, tin plated (RS Stock number 511-0073, Molex Number 19420-0010).
Good news, if you PM me I will give you my address and for the cost of a self addressed envelope with a $1 stamp I will send you 6 of the suckers. I had to buy 100 so grab them before they disappear
If you have the Molex MX150L Female connector and the OBDII compliant cable with J1962 ends you can start building the connector cable.
Have a look inside the ends to see if the pins are numbered. Mine weren't but the 1 and 8 and 9 and 16 pins were identified. For this cable you only really need to figure out what colours correspond to which pins. Unfortunately there is no 'standard' colour lay out so you need to do it the old fashioned way with an ohm meter. There are two ways to approach this. Motorcycle Mariner says to cut the Male end off the OBDII compliant Cable, splay the wires on the bit you cut off, strip and test then record your results. He does this because it is easier to probe and open pin as opposed to the closed pin on the female end. The other way is to cut off the male end, strip the now male less end and stick a paper clip in the female end, test record.
You need to identify the colour of the wires leading to Pins 4,5,6,14 and 16. You may find, like I did, that the wire for pin 4 is bare and not insulated.
From the Ural Wiring Diagram 2014-16 the Molex MX150L connector on the bike only has 4 wires going to it. You need to identify 5 on the OBDII compliant cable because 2 are ground sources, one chassis. The numbers on the wiring diagram have nothing to do with the Molex numbers or OBDII number - ignore them.
With the Pin colours identified, bring forth your soldering skills. Mine came courtesy of a grateful Govt who showed me how NASA did it - most of which I forgot.
Tin four bits of standard automotive 3mm or 4mm wire on both ends. Attach a Molex MX150L 192420 Crimp Terminal Contact Female, 22-18AWG, tin plated to one end of each wire by crimp, plier or teeth. Follow the Molex insertion diagram to push them into the back of the plug - The plug does have numbers on the back - the wires need to go into holes 1-2-4 and 5 so looking at the connector as it would be on the bike the left hand top and center pin hole and the bottom left and center pin hole.
Plug numbers looking at the plug as it would be fitted to the bike
Now for the interesting bit and where most people seem to get confused.
Attach the wire leading to Pin 1 on the Female Molex connector (top left looking at the back as though it was on the bike) to the wire colour you have identified for Pin 6 on the OBDII cable.
Attach the wire leading to Pin 2 on the Female Molex connector (top center looking at the back as though it was on the bike) to the wire colour you have identified for Pin 4 and Pin 5 on the OBDII cable.
Attach the wire leading to Pin 4 on the Female Molex connector (bottom left looking at the back as though it was on the bike) to the wire colour you have identified for Pin 14 on the OBDII cable.
Attach the wire leading to Pin 5 on the Female Molex connector (bottom left looking at the back as though it was on the bike) to the wire colour you have identified for Pin 16 on the OBDII cable.
Tin the end and solder is preferable. Add heat shrink before you solder if you want.
You now have a cable. I double checked it to make sure I had correct continuity
Finished OBDII Compliant connection cable - J1962 Female to Molex MX150L Female
If you have received your OBDLink SX Scantool use the link on the quick-start instructions to download and install the OBDWiz software. There was no activation key as mentioned on Soviet Steeds. Version 4.2 is activated online.
Follow the quick start instructions to Activate your tool and receive a licence key. Unlike Motorcycle Mariner I didn't have to turn on the run (fuel pump) switch on.
I then disconnected everything from the bike and went on-line to buy the Professional Add On. Register an account with OBDLink.com and when you log on your copy of the standard software will be unlocked.
You will get a confusing email asking you to use a download button but that has been removed - If Professional Add-On and the word Yes appear in your licence information screen on OBDWiz then it is loaded and you can continue.
You should be able to follow the info over at SS to set the User defined PID's and Dashboard up - you don't need to be connected to do that.
I set up a basic dashboard to test the connection and make sure I got everything right and it worked.
All sound too much like hard work?
Happy to answer questions.