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Post by tone on Mar 21, 2016 11:44:45 GMT 10
G'day Lee, Yep thanks for that, I meant to say flow, and yep is certainly wasn't doing any filtering. I found most of the bits in other places and bugger all in the filter.
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Post by chrisdips on Apr 22, 2016 9:02:11 GMT 10
Has anyone tried Pulstar Spark Plugs. The Qld distributor says they don't make one to suite a Ural, (flat shoulder and washer on the plug). Search for Pulse Plugs for more info.
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Post by Steppy on Apr 22, 2016 9:17:13 GMT 10
Power Arc ignition system is well worth the price.
My 2010 T pulls harder and is using less fuel.
With original ignition, jets and needles I was hitting reserve at 150km.
With the replacement jets and needles from Jon I hit reserve at 175km.
With Power Arc I hit 200km last week and still hadn't hit the reserve.
I'll do a decent run next week and see just how far I can get before hitting reserve.
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Post by Norm on Apr 22, 2016 11:26:43 GMT 10
Power Arc ignition system is well worth the price. My 2010 T pulls harder and is using less fuel. With original ignition, jets and needles I was hitting reserve at 150km. With the replacement jets and needles from Jon I hit reserve at 175km. With Power Arc I hit 200km last week and still hadn't hit the reserve. I'll do a decent run next week and see just how far I can get before hitting reserve. I look forward to your results. Speedboat, with its original N6NE needles and rejected with 45 / 128 jets goes to reserve at 200kms, plus or minus 15%. The main factor being net air speed. The timing trek that really helped both performance and fuel economy was to advance the timing to around 6 degrees BTDS.
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Post by Steppy on Apr 22, 2016 13:49:24 GMT 10
Not sure what the timing setting is with the Power Arc but do know that it has 2 programs. The standard Ural setting when under load and the Power Arc for the rest of the time. You can either set up a toggle switch to change between the 2 or use a Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch (VOES). I opted for the VOES.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2016 17:00:22 GMT 10
Power Arc ignition system is well worth the price. My 2010 T pulls harder and is using less fuel. With original ignition, jets and needles I was hitting reserve at 150km. With the replacement jets and needles from Jon I hit reserve at 175km. With Power Arc I hit 200km last week and still hadn't hit the reserve. I'll do a decent run next week and see just how far I can get before hitting reserve. I look forward to your results. Speedboat, with its original N6NE needles and rejected with 45 / 128 jets goes to reserve at 200kms, plus or minus 15%. The main factor being net air speed. The timing trek that really helped both performance and fuel economy was to advance the timing to around 6 degrees BTDS. Norm, do you know what the timing is set at by the Ural factory? sounds like I should set the Retro at 6 degrees BTDS if it helps with the performance!
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Post by Norm on Apr 23, 2016 17:11:24 GMT 10
Paul, The timing mark on the fly wheel is 3 degrees BTDS. I adjusted the mark so that it's now set at the bottom of the viewing hole rather than the middle. I resisted advancing the timing beyond factory spec but after a couple of years of riding with Lee I was convinced by him it was worth trying. Don't forget to regularly clean the air filter (maybe as frequently as daily when riding in rain). A little bit of dust or water there can have a significant effect.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2016 19:02:51 GMT 10
Paul, The timing mark on the fly wheel is 3 degrees BTDS. I adjusted the mark so that it's now set at the bottom of the viewing hole rather than the middle. I resisted advancing the timing beyond factory spec but after a couple of years of riding with Lee I was convinced by him it was worth trying. Don't forget to regularly clean the air filter (maybe as frequently as daily when riding in rain). A little bit of dust or water there can have a significant effect. Thanks Norm, Good advice. I intend buying a timing light. If I get one that the timing can be set on and set it at 3 degrees BTDC then get the timing mark in the centre of the viewing hole then I should have exactly 6 degrees BTDC seeing that the timing mark is already at 3 degrees BTDC. What do you reckon? By the way what RPM should all this be done at?
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Post by Norm on Apr 23, 2016 19:19:35 GMT 10
Paul, when using a timing light with dwell angle you can use either the timing mark or TDC mark. The timing mark is the first and is a mark with a dot. The 3 degrees, or whatever you use, is at idle. 800rpm I think. At 1800rpm standard timing is full advanced to 19 degrees BTDC. I've never checked it, I just check that as the throttle opens the timing advances.
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Post by maccaoz on Jun 17, 2016 8:20:58 GMT 10
Problem fitting new pads on rear disk brake ? After backing of the hand brake check to see if the piston is fully returned . Mine ( and others on SS)had to be forced back .I made a tool,others have resorted to a press.
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