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Post by brucek on Sept 7, 2016 23:50:36 GMT 10
These are the bits which came out of my 11,000 km old motor. It bothers me to think these have been replaced with parts which may have the same potential weakness as the originals. No blame here, the bloke doing the warranty job can only fit the parts he's given as made by IMW. I want to believe it was just bad luck because there are plenty of very high mileage Urals out there. Hopefully mine will be one of them after this. I've got some ideas on building a better tappet but need to do more research. (It's times like this I wish I was still at work with access to the Tool Room and heat treatment section). I think the problem here is that the tappet is softer at the periphery than in the centre. This softness caused rapid wear around the edge to the point where the edge of the head became so thin it no longer had any strength and started to break up. The pictures don't show it clearly but the tappet face has a spherical bump in the centre which backs up my theory of "soft at the edges, hard in the centre". That left the hard spot in the centre concentrating the load on a much smaller area on the cam lobe which then led to premature failure of the camshaft.
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Post by Uralee on Sept 8, 2016 9:17:09 GMT 10
Sad to see that Bruce. At least it is under warranty. Ural parts hardening is a bit hit and miss at times and sometimes totally missing. My drive hub spline had a Rockwell hardness of "marshmallow -3". 18k on the first one but now at 72k on the new one and still looking good......frequent cleaning and good grease does the job. I moved to HPR40 in the engine about 5 years ago .....I check valve clearances but apart from my sense of feel, they don't change.......you may want to give the oil some thought for the future, especially if you are doing 'hot' kilometres . good luck and keep the faith,
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roscoau
Life? Don't talk to me about life!
Posts: 838
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Post by roscoau on Sept 8, 2016 11:38:45 GMT 10
I moved to HPR40 in the engine about 5 years ago .....I check valve clearances but apart from my sense of feel, they don't change....... Just a good oil consistently changed is all you need. Often you're paying for a name. I've used Valvolene XLD in everything for 30 years (except the Turbo) and had good results. Now just a hair short of 60,000km I've found no reason to change. Not that it matters here but it doesn't bother wet clutches either.
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Post by brucek on Sept 8, 2016 17:46:45 GMT 10
Agree with oil comments. I've always gone for well established brand name oil in my bikes and cars. Currently using Gulf Western 20W50 (Aussie owned company) in all my bikes and Castrol Edge in the ute. I'm now considering dosing up with 'Liqui-Moly' MoS2. The benefits of Molybdenum-Disulfide are well established. I used 'Molybond' and 'Rocol' years ago but had got out of the habit somewhere along the line.
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roscoau
Life? Don't talk to me about life!
Posts: 838
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Post by roscoau on Nov 12, 2016 15:27:10 GMT 10
Swingarm pivot bearings for both front and rear are:
SKF 6201-2RSH/C3
Four bearings at each end.
Edit: $6.10 x 4
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Post by tone on Nov 12, 2016 21:04:42 GMT 10
G'day Ross, Sorry for correcting you Ross but C3 indicates the bearing clearance. 2RS or other letters are seal type, etc But thanks for the info anyway, I've written it down.
ooroo, tone.
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roscoau
Life? Don't talk to me about life!
Posts: 838
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Post by roscoau on Nov 13, 2016 7:57:28 GMT 10
Thanks Tony, I'll change that...
Edit: When I bought the bearings the guy noticed the C3 and asked if was sure I wanted that kind of seal (rubber as opposed to metal), so I dunno.
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Post by maccaoz on Jun 2, 2017 8:57:02 GMT 10
K&N Air filter for 14 + models : 33-2022
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Post by Uralee on Jun 2, 2017 20:02:02 GMT 10
K&N Air filter for 14 + models : 33-2022 Yep, but wash the oil out of it before fitting......just got one and it was soaked in oil. They run real rich like that.
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Post by maccaoz on Jan 11, 2018 8:09:44 GMT 10
Note to Fi Ural owners: The Fi Ural owners manual fuse location (page 6-9) is wrong.This fuse block is located on left of steering neck and the diagram is up side down ( fuse 1 is on the bottom of block not top) The wiring diagram (11-2) is showing fuse 1 (6 on ours) as a blue wire going to pink - red On AJ it's a blue - single red
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