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Post by maccaoz on Jun 17, 2016 8:39:42 GMT 10
Problem with toe in adjustment on rear sliding tubes that won't slide ? After trying the obvious pulling ,shaking ,levering with no result I -----emailed Norm, soaked the split joint in ATF/acertone ,removed SC wheel , used the scissor jack ( at the dog leg) to push the chair out, removed the rubber bung from the end of sidecar rear tube ,put a large block of timber in position & thumped it with a large sledge hammer. That worked . Reckon that's the Ivan way .
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roscoau
Life? Don't talk to me about life!
Posts: 838
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Post by roscoau on Jul 18, 2016 16:00:20 GMT 10
Who said Facebook was no good for anything? Check out this little gem! FJ1200 disk fits!
As an added bonus this means almost certainly a 320mm disk from another model Yamaha will fit if you want better braking (with a new caliper bracket of course). Yamaha are good like that - I had an FZR1000 disk mounted to an RD250 hub on my SRX600. A new caliper bracket and a small spacer was all the mods needed.
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Post by Uralee on Jul 18, 2016 19:49:08 GMT 10
Please explain.......? Same disc diameter and same calliper = same stopping power. Where does the better braking come from Ross ?
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roscoau
Life? Don't talk to me about life!
Posts: 838
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Post by roscoau on Jul 18, 2016 20:18:13 GMT 10
Larger disk. Stock disk is 300mm.
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Post by maccaoz on Jul 19, 2016 7:57:33 GMT 10
A larger disk should make a significant improvement to breaking. I fitted a larger disk kit to my woefully under braked KLR with excellent results.
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Post by Uralee on Jul 19, 2016 9:55:32 GMT 10
Well done Ross........You have passed the test...........not just a pretty face after all...... I will shout you a drink at Mungerannie.
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roscoau
Life? Don't talk to me about life!
Posts: 838
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Post by roscoau on Jul 19, 2016 11:35:44 GMT 10
Well done Ross........You have passed the test...........not just a pretty face after all...... I will shout you a drink at Mungerannie. Face it... I have to have SOMETHING going for me! Speaking of Mungerannie.... I have carried out the first two steps of putting sealer in the tank, this afternoon I'll do the last step, then it has to sit and cure for a week before I can use it. It bothers me that I won't have time to thoroughly test it before the trip but with the liquid metal on the outside and the liner on the inside it surely will be fine.
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roscoau
Life? Don't talk to me about life!
Posts: 838
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Post by roscoau on Jul 19, 2016 11:40:21 GMT 10
A larger disk should make a significant improvement to breaking. I fitted a larger disk kit to my woefully under braked KLR with excellent results. I wonder who's going to be first with a big sexy wave disk on their bike? It won't be me, but when the time comes...
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Post by brucek on Sept 7, 2016 11:20:40 GMT 10
I was looking for an alternative brand of spin-on oil filter for my 2015 Ranger for its 5,000 km oil change. The stock 'Ural' brand filter has a 71 mm diameter seal, an M20x1.5 thread and approx. 76.5 mm seam diameter (OD), so armed with these sizes I got onto the Ryco website and searched for an equivalent. I found three suitable filters - Z608, Z690 & Z543. All these have a seal diameter of 71 mm and an OD within 1.5 mm of stock. The Z608 is near enough a direct replacement, the Z690 is 18 mm longer than std. and the Z543 is 34.5 mm longer than std. I fitted a Z690 at 5,000 km and went back to a stock Ural filter at 10,000 km (just because I already had it as a spare). In the future I will use one of the longer Ryco filters because of the extra filter area available. Another fringe benefit is slightly extra oil capacity (however, I don't see that as being the main advantage). With the longer filters there is no risk of fouling with the front mudguard, there's heaps of clearance down there. Check Ryco's website, www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/dimension
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Post by Uralee on Sept 7, 2016 15:01:05 GMT 10
608 is Ryco"s recommendation.
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